Monday 28th January 2008
Ordered Wings
I put in my order for wings tonight. The shipping date will be 31st March and they will take about 6 (call it 8) weeks to arrive by sea freight. If that timing holds, I will have the emp well finished and will have two clear months to get my domestic decorating project out of the way.
I was on the very last minute with the order and it was touch and go as to whether my payment would make the Vans bank account before the end of Jan deadline (1 month later than normal this year). In the end, I got the 2007 price and saved 3%
On the strong advice of my inspector, Mick Bevan, I am going to get the tanks made professionally. Vans no longer offer quickbuilt tanks (except with QB wings of course) but they recommend Evan Johnson. I talked to Evan and he was happy to take on the job. He recommended a few changes to spec, such as the delux locking fuel caps. At this stage, it is likely that the rest of the wing kit will have left Aurora before Evan finishes the tanks so they will have to ship separately. There have been some mentions on forums of Evan taking a very long time to build tanks (11 months!) but he tries to prioritise international orders because shipping is such a big deal. Also, he says he has his normal lead time down to two/three months now.
As long as I get them before beginning final assembly on the wings, I don't mind. However, I would not like to rivet anything until I see that they fit. They could travel with the fuse except that I don't have storage space for the fuse crates until I finish the wings and put them up in the roof space of the shop so the tanks will have to fly solo.
Fixing more runs and spoiling more parts
Thursday 10th January 2008 1 hr 35min
Re-primed elevator parts after sanding paint runs. Sanded paint runs on Horizontal stabiliser parts and re-sprayed
More of the same soul-destroying process of cleaning up these paint runs. In order to get a good coating over these sanded areas, I want to make sure that the primer is on the thick side so I am sticking with the 10% thinning for the moment, even though I am now getting a rough finish like fine sandpaper.
In checking some primed parts, I found that I had not dimpled the flanges of the VS-706 (the top rib of the vertical stabiliser). No problem. I have found that dimpling after priming works quite well so I set about doing it. However, on the very last hole near the forward edge, I missed the hole and drove the dimple die into the flange beside it, creating a jagged elongated hole.
I checked the Vans website and the part is not expensive. I am also unhappy with the tab bends at the ends of the the trim tab. While they are functionally okay, they don't look great and they will be visible. (You could argue that if the plane is balanced correctly, there will be no deflection of the trim tab and so the ends will not be seen. But one end of the trim tab is part of the "V" formed by the inboard ends of the elevators that allows the rudder its sideways movement and this end of the trim tab will be visible. Anyway; since when was weight and balance ever perfect - otherwise we wouldn't need a trim tab). Because there were two faults to correct, I decided to go ahead and order replacements for both parts.
Re-primed elevator parts after sanding paint runs. Sanded paint runs on Horizontal stabiliser parts and re-sprayed
More of the same soul-destroying process of cleaning up these paint runs. In order to get a good coating over these sanded areas, I want to make sure that the primer is on the thick side so I am sticking with the 10% thinning for the moment, even though I am now getting a rough finish like fine sandpaper.
In checking some primed parts, I found that I had not dimpled the flanges of the VS-706 (the top rib of the vertical stabiliser). No problem. I have found that dimpling after priming works quite well so I set about doing it. However, on the very last hole near the forward edge, I missed the hole and drove the dimple die into the flange beside it, creating a jagged elongated hole.
I checked the Vans website and the part is not expensive. I am also unhappy with the tab bends at the ends of the the trim tab. While they are functionally okay, they don't look great and they will be visible. (You could argue that if the plane is balanced correctly, there will be no deflection of the trim tab and so the ends will not be seen. But one end of the trim tab is part of the "V" formed by the inboard ends of the elevators that allows the rudder its sideways movement and this end of the trim tab will be visible. Anyway; since when was weight and balance ever perfect - otherwise we wouldn't need a trim tab). Because there were two faults to correct, I decided to go ahead and order replacements for both parts.Dealing with the Runs
Tuesday 8th January 2008 3 hours
Sanded runs on elevator parts and re-primed. 2nd coat primer to left elevator and vertical stabiliser skins. Started into 2nd quart of primer.
Although most of the primer in the tailplane will never be seen, I just could not leave those runs in the primer without fixing them. The primer had cured to the stage where it could be sanded back so I used some of my 150 grit paper and took them off. there were traces of metal showing through after the sanding but I didn't feel like giving them another two coats for time, weight and material cost reasons. I just went a bit heavier with the primer on the re-spray, keeping the parts horizontal to avoid further runs.
The first quart of primer is now used up and I am into the second. This time, I am thinning as I go, mainly because I do not want to thin a second container and have the whole lot go too thin like the first one. I need to experiment with this one to find the right consistency. I decided to thin by about 10% to start with and I am doing this in the paint pot of the spray gun itself. This is far more convenient but it means I can't measure viscosity because the quantities are too small.
At this level of thinning the paint dries much quicker despite more paint going on. However, it has a rough surface - like fine sandpaper. I probably need to increase the thinning to 15 or 20% but I have to use this lot up first.
Sanded runs on elevator parts and re-primed. 2nd coat primer to left elevator and vertical stabiliser skins. Started into 2nd quart of primer.
Although most of the primer in the tailplane will never be seen, I just could not leave those runs in the primer without fixing them. The primer had cured to the stage where it could be sanded back so I used some of my 150 grit paper and took them off. there were traces of metal showing through after the sanding but I didn't feel like giving them another two coats for time, weight and material cost reasons. I just went a bit heavier with the primer on the re-spray, keeping the parts horizontal to avoid further runs.
The first quart of primer is now used up and I am into the second. This time, I am thinning as I go, mainly because I do not want to thin a second container and have the whole lot go too thin like the first one. I need to experiment with this one to find the right consistency. I decided to thin by about 10% to start with and I am doing this in the paint pot of the spray gun itself. This is far more convenient but it means I can't measure viscosity because the quantities are too small.
At this level of thinning the paint dries much quicker despite more paint going on. However, it has a rough surface - like fine sandpaper. I probably need to increase the thinning to 15 or 20% but I have to use this lot up first.
Platenut worries
Friday 4th January 2008 3 hours 30 min
Countersunk E-616-PP for Platenuts and dimpled #6 holes. Cleaned and etched the VS skin. 2nd coat primed elev parts. 1st coat primed E-616PP and Trim Tab spar. 1st coat primed VS and left elev skins.
I rang Vans support about these platenuts surrounding the inspection plate to which the trim tab servo is attached. the platenuts take the screws attaching the inspection plate. The plans call for the platenut lugs to be countersunk to take the dimples in the inspection plate itself. However they are very insubstantial and I could not see how they could retain enough strength after countersinking. The actual process of countersinking such small parts also seemed difficult. The advice I got was that they are not structural (their only function is to stop the platenut from turing while the #6 attachment screws are being inserted or removed. They suggested that I clamp some scrap metal behind the lugs and use this as a guide and a support while countersinking as necessary to allow the dimples to lie flush. Sorry, I forgot to take photos.
The primer is definitely getting thinner - I got runs everywhere.
Countersunk E-616-PP for Platenuts and dimpled #6 holes. Cleaned and etched the VS skin. 2nd coat primed elev parts. 1st coat primed E-616PP and Trim Tab spar. 1st coat primed VS and left elev skins.
I rang Vans support about these platenuts surrounding the inspection plate to which the trim tab servo is attached. the platenuts take the screws attaching the inspection plate. The plans call for the platenut lugs to be countersunk to take the dimples in the inspection plate itself. However they are very insubstantial and I could not see how they could retain enough strength after countersinking. The actual process of countersinking such small parts also seemed difficult. The advice I got was that they are not structural (their only function is to stop the platenut from turing while the #6 attachment screws are being inserted or removed. They suggested that I clamp some scrap metal behind the lugs and use this as a guide and a support while countersinking as necessary to allow the dimples to lie flush. Sorry, I forgot to take photos.
The primer is definitely getting thinner - I got runs everywhere.
Primary Colours
Wednesday 1st January 2008 3 hours
Dimpled remaining VS, HS and Elevator ribs. Etched elevator parts except left skin. 1st coat primed above parts.
An old year to look back on and a new year to look forward to. One of the best things about last year was that I finally got this long-dreamed-of project underway. It has been hard work and most things have taken longer than I anticipated. I thought I would get the tailplane finished before now but no matter. It will take as long as it takes. I would still like to get both the tail plane and wings finished this year. I also need to fit in a major re-decorating job on the reception rooms of our house.
I checked out the attachments for the trim motor attachment plate. I eventually found them in the box with the trim motor itself. I will need to grind off one side of the #6 dimple die as one of the screw holes on the E-616 PP trim tab servo reinforcing plate is too close to a flange.
The primer seemed to run much more easily, as if it had thinned overnight. Perhaps I was just putting on too much.
I found that I had neglected to dimple some parts that I have already primed. However, dimpling them after priming seems to work just fine. No cracking whatsoever around the dimples and rivets seem to sit perfectly within the dimples, just as they sit within the dimples created before priming. the primer is probably at a good stage of curing where it still has some flexibility.
It is very cold today and not very appealing to be running between the shop, the patio (where I am using a garden hose for rinsing) and the kitchen (where I am drying off the parts before priming).
Dimpled remaining VS, HS and Elevator ribs. Etched elevator parts except left skin. 1st coat primed above parts.
An old year to look back on and a new year to look forward to. One of the best things about last year was that I finally got this long-dreamed-of project underway. It has been hard work and most things have taken longer than I anticipated. I thought I would get the tailplane finished before now but no matter. It will take as long as it takes. I would still like to get both the tail plane and wings finished this year. I also need to fit in a major re-decorating job on the reception rooms of our house.I checked out the attachments for the trim motor attachment plate. I eventually found them in the box with the trim motor itself. I will need to grind off one side of the #6 dimple die as one of the screw holes on the E-616 PP trim tab servo reinforcing plate is too close to a flange.
The primer seemed to run much more easily, as if it had thinned overnight. Perhaps I was just putting on too much.
I found that I had neglected to dimple some parts that I have already primed. However, dimpling them after priming seems to work just fine. No cracking whatsoever around the dimples and rivets seem to sit perfectly within the dimples, just as they sit within the dimples created before priming. the primer is probably at a good stage of curing where it still has some flexibility.
It is very cold today and not very appealing to be running between the shop, the patio (where I am using a garden hose for rinsing) and the kitchen (where I am drying off the parts before priming).
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
